Post Demolition Years & the Revived Brewing Business
Litchborough 1974 -1986
At the time of the closing and demolition of the Bridge Street Brewery, the head brewer was Bill Urquhart. Bill had started out as a brewer in Alloa before heading south to Tollymache in Ipswich. From there he moved to Ely with East Anglian Breweries and then to Steward and Patteson in Norwich. They were taken over by Watney Mann in 1963 and as a result Bill was transferred within the company to Phipps in Northampton that same year.
Noel “Dusty” Miller, Bridge Street’s long serving head brewer, had moved over to Carlsberg a year before the final end of brewing and his deputy, Bill, took over to see out the last days of the Phipps Brewery. In the years running up to closure Bill had made attempts to convince the Watney Mann board to construct a small brewing plant at the new Lodge Farm, Duston Depot. He knew that there was still a demand for a local, Northamptonshire brewed draught beer. A small brew plant could easily add its casks into the distribution system being constructed to bring beers in from other surviving Watney breweries. Unfortunately his plans found no favour and Duston would never produce its own beer.
Around Britain at this time many other traditional breweries were closing so finding similar employment with another company was going to difficult. Clearly there was to be no job for Bill in the new streamlined, state-of-the-art lager brewery in Northampton either.
Founded in Towcester in 1801 and opening a second brewery in Northampton in 1817, Phipps NBC became part of the Watney Mann Empire in 1960, ending 159 years of independence. Despite assurances of a bright and prosperous future, the company’s beers and brewery were steadily run down over the next 14 years. Phipps draught disappeared in 1968 with bottled IPA and Jumbo Stout lasting another four years. The Bridge Street brewery continued to produce beer sold under the Watney and Manns brands until May 1974 when Carlsberg took full possession of the site and built their lager plant there, still brewing today.
Bill Urquhart and Frank Kenna in the late ’70s Litchborough Brewery
John Heaverman and Bill Urquhart in the brewery with halves of Northamptonshire Bitter
Bill, however, was a resourceful and practical man who decided to strike out on his own. With the help of former Bridge Street colleagues such as Chief Chemist Michael Henson, Bill set about transforming the Phipps IPA recipe into something he could brew on a small scale. He and Mike actually worked on this recipe at Bridge Street, under the noses of the Watney management. Mike remembers slipping out to Boots in his lunch hour to buy ingredients for the secret trial brews. Using his redundancy money and contacts within the brewing fraternity, Bill cobbled together the country’s first micro brewery in the small Northamptonshire village of Litchborough.
Bill had initially tried to interest other former Phipps brewers in becoming his partner but it was soon apparent that the business would only support one wage. However like many small businesses and microbreweries in particular, behind Bill stood his wife Nessie and sometimes daughter Elspeth who both chipped in when needed. By 1978 neighbour Frank Kenna had formally become Bill’s business partner after helping out since the early days and helping Bill to turn the odd collection of redundant cellar tanks into a working brewery.
At first the product range was sparse and simple, a traditional bitter in the Phipps style but it gained a loyal following. Initially it was only produced as a premium keg bitter since most of the area’s cellars and bars had lost their beer pumps in the dash to keg that Watneys had encouraged. As the decade rolled on Bill encouraged many independent outlets to re-install traditional beer engines which enabled him to begin brewing and supplying them with traditional cask ale.
The mid- ‘70s saw the beginnings of the real ale revival and Bill was to play a key role as consultant to many small independent brewers setting up at this time. At his brewery he took on apprentices and passed on his knowledge directly. One such was Richard Jenkinson who would go on to found his own company down the road in Aylesbury, and The Chiltern Brewery continues to flourish there today. Another, John Heaverman would eventually take over the Litchborough concern when Bill literally flew off to St. Helena to help the government there set up an indigenous brewery, again calling on former Phipps friends such as Peter Mauldon to help source the plant.
Bill came to be seen as the father of the new generation of small breweries which sprang up during the first wave of the real ale revival. CAMRA’s Mick Bolshaw said at the time: “Many a small brewer has beaten a path to Bill’s fermentation vessels in search of advice and expertise, which has been freely and cheerfully given. The man seems to have become a guru to the trade.” Chronicle and Echo, Oct 1980
In 1980 the brewery re-located to Daventry after planning permission for an enlarged plant in the village of Litchborough was refused. To mark the move and Bill’s retirement, Northampton CAMRA members rolled a 9 gallon firkin of the last brew 5 miles from Litchborough to the new site in Daventry.
In 1983 Liddingtons, Rugby-based beer and wine wholesalers, bought the company from John Heaverman although he continued working at the re-located plant with his sons. The new owner’s enthusiasm soon faded and the end finally came in 1986. Bill and his wife had by this time retired to their native Scotland but in the years following the demise of Bridge St. he had successfully passed on the Phipps way of brewing to the next generation.
The term Microbrewery hadn’t been coined when Litchborough started but it is now regarded as the first example in the world. Other claimants to the title are the Selby Brewery although this was a re-opening of an existing brewery in 1972, and Westbury Ales in 1973 which was a small brewpub based in the Miner’s Arms, Priddy, Somerset.
Bob Hipwell, from another long line of brewers, stayed with Watneys and Grand Met and moved down to London to take up a number of senior positions within the brewing empire.
Bill Urquhart, the last head brewer at Bridge Street, started arguably the world’s first micro brewery in Litchborough and became a consultant to many of the micros that set up in his wake.
Mike Henson, Phipps Chief Chemist from 1964 to 1972 transferred his skills to Carlsberg and continued as their UK Chief Chemist at the new Bridge St. Brewery until 1996.
Peter Mauldon initially went to Watney’s Mortlake Brewery but returned to his native Suffolk to re-establish the family’s brewery, Mauldons in Sudbury, his son still works there today whilst Peter is a consultant at Cask Marque.
Frank Kenna Interview
Frank moved back from Australia in 1973 and found himself living next door to Bill and Nessie Urquhart in Litchborough, Northants. Bill had bought a property from Watney Mann, an old pub with barns in the rear and was in the process of getting his microbrewery together. Frank was an engineer and was enlisted to help with the construction of the plant. In these early days, long before an industry grew up to support microbrewing, every thing had to be made from scratch or adapted from other sources of parts.
Bill had got hold of a number of redundant cellar tanks from Watneys and these formed the basis of the Litchborough operation. Frank remembers drilling 1000’s of holes in a sheet of stainless steel to make the mash tun filter floor, In the early days the ingredients also had to consist of whatever was available at a price and quantity that matched Bill’s 5 barrel plant. Originally Wheat syrup was used along with malt but soon Frank was able to cobble together a small malt mill from two redundant CO2 bottles and a washing machine motor. The pair only managed to find one large propane burner for the kettle which often led to a slight charring on the bottom of the vessel. Bill found this added a slight burnt, smokey note to the beer which he kept as part of the flavour. 4 varieties of hops were used, the idea being that if any one wasn’t available Bill could blend a close enough brew from 3, or supplement a different fourth. The beer was always cold filtered but then dry hopped and yeast added in the cask. Over the 6 years with Bill at the helm, Litchborough’s Northamptonshire Bitter evolved and improved but remained 3.8%. It is odd to think now in an era when light, golden beers dominate the trade that Bill coloured his naturally light brew with burnt sugar to make it appeal as a traditional, dark bitter.
The very first customer was Farthingstone Golf Course where Bill was a member, the beer delivered in kegs. As the 70s wore on more free houses broke away from the strangle hold of national chains and trad cask Litchborough grew as a proportion of production. Bill was not a crusader for real ale in the purist CAMRA sense, he was trying to brew a beer of traditional character but was always a pragmatic and prudent man. Nothing illustrates this more than his willing attempt to brew a lager. Carlsberg, like Watneys before them, experienced a plant shutting strike in the ’70s. One of Bill’s customers who also served Carlsberg lager, asked him if he could supply an alternative during the strike and Bill happily dusted off the old Phipps Stein formula and produced a brew or two of “Litchbrau”. When Carlsberg resumed production Bill returned to a bitter only brewery.
Bill, or Morris as his close friends and family knew him, was often likened to Dad’s army’s Captain Mainwaring and not just for his physical resemblance, like Captain Mainwaring he was no push over. His day would start at 8.00 am with an opening drink and at mid day lunch was always served with full silver service, napkins and a finishing glass of whiskey. Generally, afternoons at Litchborough were not quite as industrious as the mornings.
Frank had initially been an occasional engineer, drayman and brewer at Litchborough as the turnover was small and variable in the first years of trading. By 1978 the business had established itself and Frank came on board full time. Although Bill had wanted him to stay on after he retired in 1980, Frank decided to return to his main profession and after pursuing a few avenues, eventually started an engineering company with two other partners which took up most of his working life. He remained a good friend of the Urquharts for the rest of theirs.
Today Frank is back working in a brewery as a director of Phipps Northampton Brewery Company, acting as our chief brewery engineer
The Dry Years 1974 – 2004
Watney Mann’s new owners Grand Metropolitan were a large, sprawling company that seemed to understand hotels and real estate more than it did brewing. The plans they inherited for the remaining part of the old Phipps NBC business, a pub chain without a brewery, involved building a new distribution centre at Lodge Farm in Duston which would bring in beer from other breweries and brewers to serve the estate. Later the pub chain would be run from offices in Brackmills, Northampton, not far from the old Bridge St. Brewery site. Although the new brewery only brewed Carlsberg lager, it was still part owned by Grand Met until 1985.
Watney Mann had entered the ‘70s as a motley collection of old breweries servicing a number of separate pub estates, headed up by a brand that had quickly gone from being the dashing modern hope of brewing to the butt of radical humour and one of the hate figures for the emerging real ale movement.The famous Monty Python travel agent sketch where Eric Idle’s Mr Smoketoomuch rants on about Spain being full of tourists drinking “bleeding Watneys Red Barrel” was first aired on 16th November 1972 and captures the moment the tide turned against Watneys. Sweetening the brew and re-branding it simply “Watneys Red” only delayed the end.
Ironically, only 8 years after ending traditional “fined” bitter ,Watney Mann Midland were trailing “new, traditional gas free real ale” in autumn 1976. Stung by the success of CAMRA and Litchborough and with an eye on market share, 30 rural pubs were chosen to re-introduce this type of beer. Although it was brewed in Norwich, new managing director Robin Harston announced it was the first step towards catering for local tastes:
” We have a lot of homework to do and part of that involves finding out what people really want from their local brewer… for even if we no longer have a brewery in Northampton, we are still looked upon over a wide area as the local brewer.” Chronicle and Echo September 1976.
It is possible to imagine the directors and managers at Watney Mann Midland realising their hasty discarding of Phipps might have been a mistake and that although sterile gas-filled keg beer had its place, there would always be a market for a more complex and crafted beer. CAMRA had labelled Northamptonshire a “Real Ale desert”, largely thanks to the efforts of Watneys in dismantling the county’s beer engines, and the label stuck.
Watneys still hoped to be thought of as your local brewer while selling beer brewed in Norwich and London. The pub in the picture, is the Admiral Nelson in Braunston,
In a further attempt to add some drinking quality and variety to the Manns Northampton pub chain, Ben Truman’s London Ale was added as a range topping keg bitter. For many of the company’s customers in the ’70s and ’80s, the least worst choice on offer was “a pint of Ben”. Trumans had a historic link with NBC as it took over the Phillips Brewery in Burton in 1873. It been part of the Grand Met empire since 1971 and was soon added to the Watney Mann brewing division. Watneys worked their magic on Trumans, getting rid of all cask ales and running the company down until it too closed in 1989. Like Phipps it has re surfaced recently as a born again London brewery.
Watney’s part in the Northampton company name was finally dispensed with in 1977 when NBC made a return as the business became Manns Northampton Brewery Co. Just as the Phipps NBC star had gradually been replaced by the Watney red barrel on signage in the 60s, the Manns St. George and Dragon figure started to replace the red barrel in the late 70s. In the mid ’70s.
The Phipps brand name was separated from the NBC brand which stayed with the pub chain. Whether Carlsberg had options to pick it up or Grand Met had a notion they might one day revive it, we can’t know from this distance.
In 1987 Grand Met merged another of its brewery-less brewers, The Norwich Brewery, with Manns NBC to create Manns Norwich Brewery Ltd. Watneys had taken it over in 1963 and closed their brewery in 1983 but Northampton remained the centre of the new joint operation.
In 1991 Grand Met sold its brewing interests to Courage, then owned by Australians Elders whose best know brand was Fosters.
In 1995 Scottish and Newcastle bought Courage Elders Fosters. It reorganised its assets, renaming Courage the Brewman Group Ltd, one of its subsidiaries being Brewman MNB Ltd, our old friend.
In 1999 it was renamed again this time Cellar Door Direct Ltd but by 2004 S&N had taken the decision to get out of pub ownership altogether and the company was set to be broken up. The distribution network and depot at Lodge Farm had stayed with Grand Met who had merged with Guinness to become Diago, the operation was sold to Kuehne Nagel, a German based logistic company. The pubco Spirit, based in Burton on Trent, then took over the majority of the surviving pub estate and the Delapre offices were closed.
There was a six month handing-over period between S&N and Spirit during which time S&N Northampton manager Quentin Neville transferred to Spirit to help integrate the old company’s pubs into its new owner’s business.
The Contract Brewing Revival, 2004 to 2014
During what would become the last year of S&N’s ownership of the Northampton pub chain, two of the local managers, Quentin Neville and Edward Theakston had started working on a plan to re-introduce a Phipps real ale to the Northamptonshire Chef and Brewer pubs as a historic, local novelty. The idea had been encouraged by a number of the more senior landlords, some of whom still doggedly referred to the company as Phipps! Following S&N’s decision the wind up the company, Edward Theakston left to revive his family’s old Masham brewery in Yorkshire but Quentin along with brother Alaric, decided to take the opportunity and go it alone, continuing the real ale project with Phipps NBC as an independent company once more.
It took four years of research and negotiation from the inception of the revival for Phipps NBC beer to launch in December 2008 at the Sir Pickering Phipps in Northampton. You can read about this process in “brewing our ales”. The reception of the beer surpassed all expectation and it is a matter of great pride that once again people can walk into many pubs and clubs in the Northants area and order a pint of Phipps. Following on from the success of the IPA, NBC’s session bitter Red Star was re introduced quickly followed by Ratliffe’s Celebrated Stout in 2009. In Diamond Jubilee year we also took the opportunity to brew Phipps Diamond ale for the first time since the outbreak of WW2.
Phipps ales sold strongly over the next few years, a great testament to the enduring affection the beers and company enjoyed as well as the peerless brewing skill of master brewer Tony Davis and his deputy John Smith at Grainstore Brewery. With strong local sales and national listings taking the IPA further than ever before, demand outstripped supply. It soon became apparent that Phipps NBC needed to regain complete control of its production to enable to company to grow and service the market. After considering sites in Towcester, the company’s birth place, it soon became clear Northampton was the right place to settle. When the old Ratliffe and Jeffery Albion Brewery fell vacant in late 2012 negotiations began to enable Phipps to return home to a building we once owned and brewed in. 2014 will saw the first Northampton brewed Phipps and Ratliffe ales for 40 years.
The Return to Northampton and the Albion Brewery
March 2014 marked the end of the beginning as Phipps NBC once again joins the ranks of British brewers, writing a fresh chapter in the company’s 216 year history.
Continuing Pickering Phipps’ tradition of bringing in brewers that helped his company to grow, we have taken over Litchborough based Hoggleys and their brewer Roy Crutchley joined the Albion staff. Hoggleys beers in cask and bottle remain a separate brand within the company but are available from the same drayman as Phipps. Former Ruddles and Grainstore deputy brewer John Smith who has brewed every pint of Phipps since 2008 transferred over to The Albion to continue the standard of excellence Phipps ales have become renowned for over the past 5 years. Our brewery manager is the redoubtable Mel Tudno-Jones. Our drayman is Glenn a former Manns Northampton Brewery man. Jeremy Phipps, 6x great grandson of Pickering, has joined us on the board to re forge links with the founding family. William Ratliffe, 5x great grandson of our Mr Ratliffe is also an investor. Bill Urquhart’s business partner and brewery engineer at Litchborough brewery, Frank Kenna, has joined the company as brewery engineer and director.
In November 2014 there was a special celebration as the first brew of Ratliffe’s Celebrated Stout in the Albion since 1919 took place. We now produce almost all Phipps classic brews: Phipps IPA, Red Star, Gold Star, Ratliffe’s Celebtrated Stout, Bison Brown and Stingo No.10. We also brew new interpretations of the Phipps style in brewing, Midsummer Meadow, Steam Roller, Cascadia and Black Star. To mark the 850th anniversary of Thomas Becket’s trial in Northampton, we brewed a classic, dark, malty beer with local honey called Becket’s Ale, this won the Carlsberg Food & Drink Award for Best Artisan Drink in 2015.
With our brewery tap, The Albion Brewery Bar open and featuring regular brewery tours , the old building is once more a living, breathing hub for fine ales in the town. Phipps has finally come home!
The future is bright, the future is Phipps